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LOTS of questions for my SS build.....


ebenvn

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Hi guys,

 

So I finally decided on a SS build, got my frame the weekend (Gary Fisher hardtail)... Super excited to start. :clap: Some questions if you could please assist...

Thanks!

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  • Pick any crank
  • Get a chainring that has no ramps and pins
  • Get a steel cog made for single speeding
  • Get something to space the cog on the freehub - spacers from a couple of old cassettes are cheapest and easiest (ask your LBS for a couple of old worn-out cassettes that they will normally throw away)
  • Get a tensioner, like the Gusset Bachelor, or a spring-loaded one freely available (or use an old road rear derailleur)
  • Get a 6/7/8-speed chain
  • Put it all together and have many happy miles, stopping every 200km or so to add a bit of tension to the chain as it stretches.

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Chain tensioner - build it before you decide - you might be lucky (like me) and not need one at all.

Chain - anything you like - I use 7speed chains (cheap)

Crank - just remove the blades - you will probably need to shorten the washers a bit or the ring will be loose - hacksaw worked for me.

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  • Pick any crank
  • Get a chainring that has no ramps and pins
  • Get a steel cog made for single speeding
  • Get something to space the cog on the freehub - spacers from a couple of old cassettes are cheapest and easiest (ask your LBS for a couple of old worn-out cassettes that they will normally throw away)
  • Get a tensioner, like the Gusset Bachelor, or a spring-loaded one freely available (or use an old road rear derailleur)
  • Get a 6/7/8-speed chain
  • Put it all together and have many happy miles, stopping every 200km or so to add a bit of tension to the chain as it stretches.

 

What do you mean with no ramps or pins?

 

 

Thanks guys. What size cogs should I buy?

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being ramped (The teeth are cut/shaped to allow the chain on a conventionally geared bike to shift over faster/smoother) they are not the best for a SS setup ... case in point .....This morning was very interesting having my chain jump off the good old ramped Shimano cog/blade combo while sprinting ..... fortunately I used my knee and elbo to grind to a halt on the road and manage to save the bike from any serious harm!

Another good thing about this is I discovered my local spar carries knee and elbow specific over-sized plasters that fit very well and are rather comfy.

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What do you mean with no ramps or pins?

 

 

Thanks guys. What size cogs should I buy?

 

If you look at a geared bike you will see the chain rings and rear cassette has machined/notches.pins ect on the rings , this is to help gear change so the chain can hookup from one to the next , you dont want those on a SS. a SS ring has smooth sides with none of these .

 

if you on a 26" 32 front 16 rear is a good start but buy some extra rear one , 14,15,16

 

on a 29er 32 / 18 is a good start get some extras too 15,16,18,20 .

 

have fun , thats the aim of the game .

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being ramped (The teeth are cut/shaped to allow the chain on a conventionally geared bike to shift over faster/smoother) they are not the best for a SS setup ... case in point .....This morning was very interesting having my chain jump off the good old ramped Shimano cog/blade combo while sprinting ..... fortunately I used my knee and elbo to grind to a halt on the road and manage to save the bike from any serious harm!

 

Another good thing about this is I discovered my local spar carries knee and elbow specific over-sized plasters that fit very well and are rather comfy.

 

what he said abot the pins ect probly makes more sense than mine .

 

you have this happen to you once then you learn fast what is correct to use . lots lots of skin eating tar like this lat year.

Edited by Iron
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being ramped (The teeth are cut/shaped to allow the chain on a conventionally geared bike to shift over faster/smoother) they are not the best for a SS setup ... case in point .....This morning was very interesting having my chain jump off the good old ramped Shimano cog/blade combo while sprinting ..... fortunately I used my knee and elbo to grind to a halt on the road and manage to save the bike from any serious harm!

 

Another good thing about this is I discovered my local spar carries knee and elbow specific over-sized plasters that fit very well and are rather comfy.

Those better than hydraulic brakes? :eek:

 

I remember knees were quite successful when I still had a Chopper in primary school. :blush:

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Those better than hydraulic brakes? :eek:

 

I remember knees were quite successful when I still had a Chopper in primary school. :blush:

 

Thankfully the roads were wet so I slid more than ground to a halt, I had a long sleeved jacket, baggies and a back pack on ... the jacket has holes in it now, the baggies are tough as nails as to is the back pack, but the back pack thank fully took a good bit of the brunt from the initial impact.

 

The moral of the story. Of the story is that I need (not want) a SS crank blade with a SS specific rear cog and chain combo.

 

The crank blade and chain are easy to find on ...

http://dialdbikes.co.za/dartmoor-totem-chainring.html

http://dialdbikes.co.za/dartmoor-core-chain.html

 

But I am still searching for a cog before I press the purchase button.

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Thankfully the roads were wet so I slid more than ground to a halt, I had a long sleeved jacket, baggies and a back pack on ... the jacket has holes in it now, the baggies are tough as nails as to is the back pack, but the back pack thank fully took a good bit of the brunt from the initial impact.

 

The moral of the story. Of the story is that I need (not want) a SS crank blade with a SS specific rear cog and chain combo.

 

The crank blade and chain are easy to find on ...

http://dialdbikes.co...-chainring.html

http://dialdbikes.co...core-chain.html

 

But I am still searching for a cog before I press the purchase button.

 

CRC , have them DX shimano rear cog is the way to go .

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Dialed bikes pricing is excellent and the boys are SA based store, the DX though on CRC only comes in largest 18t ... I need both an 18t and 20t with the 20t being the priority in CT.

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Those will work but aren't ideal. Look for cogs with a wider base that are less likely to damage the freehub body over time (wider base = force spread over a larger surface area). Brands like Niner, Endless cogs and On-One do them.

 

Will check with on-one .. the Niner ones look nice, but I have heard they do not last long at all.

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