NicoBoshoff Posted September 27, 2017 Share T-man. I'm no Brunox evangelist. I'll stop using it and have a look during the next lowers service what the condition of the oil and foam rings are. Will be an interesting comparison. Two lowers services in and my foam rings look just like yours despite using Brunox frequently, but conservatively. Two people essentially driving this thread. Both are being equally ridiculously stubborn. I'll go with what Droo said (besides he did the last lowers and he wasn't particularly alarmed). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NicoBoshoff Posted September 27, 2017 Share Cool man, just have a closer look at your foamrings. It kind of looks like there are black spots starting to form and they might end up looking like the ones in my example given some time. In the example I used above, the fork was not serviced in two years and the owner started using the external lube little over a year back. My guess was that the foamrings were bone dry when he started using the external lube, which made things worse. In my opinion the combination Rock Shox Foamrings and external lube is a far worse than that lube combined with Fox foamrings. The Fox foamrings are much more dense and retain their oil way better. Far too often when I open a Rock Shox up, the foamrings are dry.So to me it sounds that often it's actually just owner neglect f'ing up their rings, which then creates less ideal environment to be using stanchion lube (which is not meant to replace fork oil as a lubricant, but rather in minute quantities as a cleaner - well that's how I use it anyways)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean Hammon Posted October 10, 2017 Share LOL, that's like saying it's OK to put sugar in your petrol tank, because the owner's manual doesn't explicitly say you shouldn't. I support the use of a stanchion lube, but I also know that most of the 'developed' products are cheap gun oils in a fancy tin (with a fancy price). You can be sure that if the thieves at FOX could sell you stanchion oil, also at R1000/l, they would. "Snake oil" IMO is apt.I believe that, as with chains, dust and grit stick to exposed oil. Oiling stanchions is begging for grit and dust to stick there, hang out there, and grind the stanchions and seals away. Every stroke becoming a grind. There is more than enough internal oil and oily vapour going on inside to prevent dry dust seals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Kolin Posted October 20, 2017 Share You can be sure that if the thieves at FOX could sell you stanchion oil, also at R1000/l, they would. "Snake oil" IMO is apt.I believe that, as with chains, dust and grit stick to exposed oil. Oiling stanchions is begging for grit and dust to stick there, hang out there, and grind the stanchions and seals away. Every stroke becoming a grind. There is more than enough internal oil and oily vapour going on inside to prevent dry dust seals. https://www.bikerumor.com/2017/10/19/review-whistler-performance-lubricants-fork-boost-and-chain-boost-keep-things-clean-and-smooth/ "I always felt like I was doing my bikes a big favor by using Fork Boost, and it certainly hasn’t produced any negative effects on my fork’s performance. If you’re looking to keep your forks clean and running smooth, I’d happily recommend Fork Boost." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Odinson Posted October 20, 2017 Share Which fork ? And if you had to make A rough guess how may hours ? Dude, never even saw your reply. It's a RS Lyrik RCT3 2016. Have no idea i.t.o. hours, but probably far over the recommended 50h interval. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dev null Posted October 20, 2017 Share BTW, I thoroughly recommend the Charger 2 damper upgrade. Also, through trial and error I can also recommend a healthy dose of SRAM Butter on that air spring. My Reba is oh so smooth now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirkitech Posted October 20, 2017 Share Problem is that most people do not do the 50hr service, which is quick and should cost in the region of R650-R850. By the time it does get serviced, it is too late for a 50hr service and seals, dustwipers must be added. Fox Dustwipers are R665 at the moment. Then you are up to R1300 quickly. If the 50hr service or lets call it a "lowers service", gets done regularly, you would not need to replace dustwipers that often. None of the lbs's I've made use of for servicing forks (at least 4) offered a "lowers service". They've only ever allowed a full service even on request... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Odinson Posted October 20, 2017 Share Very detailed guide for those interested in bleeding their Charger dampers: http://www.epicbleedsolutions.com/blog/how-to-bleed-rockshox-charger-damper/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rawoke Posted October 20, 2017 Share Jislaaik ! Baie Braso and elbow grease Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Headshot Posted October 20, 2017 Share A complete fork service is a bit of a mission but well within the grasp of a home mechanic if you are careful and willing to learn. I have managed the learning part but a bit too adhd to be properly careful... The lowers service is a complete doddle and should become second nature and a regular part of your bike maintenance. I am going to show a friend of mine how to do it in exchange for dinner and a beer this weekend. I already know the fork is well past its prime - he was slack on servicing and the dirt at the wiper has already worn the stanchions... still I am sure his wife will get quite a bit of use out of the fork yet though. The funny thing is that in SA being the marathon nation of nations, suspension is ignored I think. Its enduro/dh people who invest in maintenance and tweaking IMO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dev null Posted October 20, 2017 Share Very detailed guide for those interested in bleeding their Charger dampers: http://www.epicbleedsolutions.com/blog/how-to-bleed-rockshox-charger-damper/ Please note that the new Charger 2 damper uses a special socket that looks like a cassette socket, without the centre locating pin, and not the size 30 normal socket. Not very expensive, just order at your LBS before you start the job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Odinson Posted October 20, 2017 Share Please note that the new Charger 2 damper uses a special socket that looks like a cassette socket, without the centre locating pin, and not the size 30 normal socket. Not very expensive, just order at your LBS before you start the job. Quite right, but I'm still on the Charger 1, as are most guys who don't have new bikes with the 2018 forks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BaGearA Posted November 7, 2017 Share Sommer subscribe if you feel my vibe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cotic Posted November 7, 2017 Share Guys only way to ride is SS ridgid. Since I have gone that route strength and skills are up and costs are down Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fanievb Posted November 8, 2017 Share Guys only way to ride is SS ridgid.Since I have gone that route strength and skills are up and costs are down Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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