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Looking for Shop to Solve Click


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Hi,

 

Has anyone got a good reference on a bike store that can find and sort out a clicking sound when I pedal?

I have a 2013 Specialized Stumpjumper Comp 29

 

Its been Centurion Cyclery 3 Times now and everytime I get it back its quiet for about 25km and then the sound comes back.

 

Over the last couple of visits and service they replaced the following...

 

Steering Bearings

Wheel Bearings (Front and Back)

BB

New Pedals

Checked all FSR Bearings

Spokes

 

and yet again today 2 weeks later click is back.

 

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Hi,

 

Has anyone got a good reference on a bike store that can find and sort out a clicking sound when I pedal?

I have a 2013 Specialized Stumpjumper Comp 29

 

Its been Centurion Cyclery 3 Times now and everytime I get it back its quiet for about 25km and then the sound comes back.

 

Over the last couple of visits and service they replaced the following...

 

Steering Bearings

Wheel Bearings (Front and Back)

BB

New Pedals

Checked all FSR Bearings

Spokes

 

and yet again today 2 weeks later click is back.

 

Are your cleats worn or loose?

Are all your chainring bolts tight ?

Have you seen an orthopedic surgeon ? Maybe it is your knee....

Edited by eddy
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Things to try -

 

1. does the click happen at a set point on your pedal stroke (check pedals, crank, seat, seatpost, suspension), or does it change with speed (wheels)

2. Get someone to ride with you to see if they can pinpoint it.

3. put it on a stand and see if you can replicate the noise

 

This can be as simple as a little dirt in your freehub or a chainring bolt thats loose. 

Edited by 100Tours
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I once rode the 94.7 MTB on a new bike, big blade, click, click, click, middle and small ring, all was quiet, so rode the entire thing on the middle blade.  Turned out that when on the big ring, the cable for the front derailleur protruded enough to touch the inside of the crank arm on every revolution.  Tucked it away, and all was good... 

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My first go to is the seat post. Aluminum against carbon or aluminum is never ideal. Mark height before removing, clean nicely and apply copperslip. If you have a carbon seatpost then use some carbon compound.

If that doesn't help then BB is the next thing to check. If you have press fit BB then good chance it's that. Do it yourself or get a friend to help you, process of elimination is the name of the game here. By doing it yourself you will know for sure what's been checked and what hasn't.

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quick and cheap checks for clicks if you are out of solutions...

 

-Where the saddle rails go into the housings of the saddles...give them some q20 or something. they love clicking away as dirt kreeps in there over time. also check and clean the clamps on the seatpost for the same.

 

-seatpost. take out,clean, get a rag in that seat tube as deep as you can and clean that too. thin layer of grease or whatever you prefer (i hate carbon paste).my bike was at a shop once and they put carbon paste in there "for more resistance so it wouldn't have to clamp the dropper as tight". (hindering performance).....and it clicked from the first second i rode it.

 

....and as already mentioned,lube/wax/check your cleat interface. I have an annoying squeek/click on my left shoe I have to doctor every few weeks...probably need a new on on that shoe but meh.

Edited by morneS555
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-seatpost. take out,clean, get a rag in that seat tube as deep as you can and clean that too. thin layer of grease or whatever you prefer (i hate carbon paste).my bike was at a shop once and they put carbon paste in there "for more resistance so it wouldn't have to clamp the dropper as tight". (hindering performance).....and it clicked from the first second i rode it.

 

That's bound to end with your seatpost sliding down while riding... 

 

But I do agree that creaks are often from the seatpost, both in the frame, as well as the saddle rails.

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That's bound to end with your seatpost sliding down while riding... 

 

But I do agree that creaks are often from the seatpost, both in the frame, as well as the saddle rails.

its actually not anymore. lol you dont grease it like a cv joint....talking microns here, just to avoid a dry joint (what causes creaking with movement in most cases)

Edited by morneS555
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