DR ◣◢ Posted June 23, 2020 Share Hi all Building up a bike soon with a Boost rear end and I'm moving the bulk of my parts from the old bike. Currently running 1x on the crank with a 32t sitting in the middle position of the crank. My understanding is that a Boost crank spaces the chainring out by 3mm. If the spider is 3mm thick can I just move the chainring outward? I don't mind buying new cranks and a BB but if I can save R2k on the build then I'm smiling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renier82 Posted June 23, 2020 Share i have seen others do exactly that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renier82 Posted June 23, 2020 Share ultimately yopu just want your chainline to be as straight as possible, how you achieve that "safely" you should be good, i wouldnt space between the crank and chainring though, but moving out outward of the mounting holes should be cool Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DR ◣◢ Posted June 23, 2020 Share Thought so. Only one way to be sure. Do it and redo it if needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alouette3 Posted June 23, 2020 Share Rapide also sell spacer washers if needed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marshace Posted July 9, 2020 Share Hi all Building up a bike soon with a Boost rear end and I'm moving the bulk of my parts from the old bike. Currently running 1x on the crank with a 32t sitting in the middle position of the crank. My understanding is that a Boost crank spaces the chainring out by 3mm. If the spider is 3mm thick can I just move the chainring outward? I don't mind buying new cranks and a BB but if I can save R2k on the build then I'm smiling. Depending on what BB you have, you can also consider putting in the second spacer which you normally get in the box.A bit of trial and error but you should manage.Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DR ◣◢ Posted July 9, 2020 Share Ended up buying a Lyne Pulse crank and BB. Didn't feel like struggling Robbie Stewart 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbie Stewart Posted July 9, 2020 Share I am in two minds over my HT hanging on the garage wall. It has a old 3x10 setup which gives me plenty speed when riding on tar and gravel.My Full-sus has a 1x12 setup, so am not particularly wanting to go that route as it's rather slow. I am struggling to find a proper chain ring setup myself to replace the existing rings and cassette that are worn out, or perhaps go with the 2x11 I took of the full-sus and pop that on the HT? That derailler took a knock and is somewhat bent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pieter-za Posted July 9, 2020 Share I am in two minds over my HT hanging on the garage wall. It has a old 3x10 setup which gives me plenty speed when riding on tar and gravel.Not to derail the discussion but just a quick note re this. I used my 3x HT also for the above reasons, so when venturing into the 1x / 2x world (only last weekend!) I plot out this to see what the actuals are. (Only the darker green ratios are really material.) With Veloviewer I also analysed the % time at speeds say above 35 km/h to try and determine how often did I really used the 44 - 11 combo. (Less than 5% on my ave tar jolly it seems. I also know I spend the most time on the 32t chainring) I went with 1x11, 36 crank with 11 - 42 cassette (as I don't do tech trail steep climbing stuff etc - this might become my 'touring' bike for gravel and tar.) So in the end I am losing a approx 2 km/h at the lower end and 8 km/h which I had with the 44 chain ring. (Quite a jump with that last ratio, from 13 - 44 to 11 - 44.) Time will tell Edited July 9, 2020 by Pieter-za Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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