Jaybles999 Posted August 6, 2020 Share Hi all, I currently have a 3x10. Rear cassette = 11t - 40t.I am wanting to convert to 1x10 for now before potentially upgrading the whole drivetrain down the road to 1x11 or 1x12. From what I can tell, I should be able to use my current shifter and deraileur (XT - see attached) and cassette. Would I be able to use my existing crank (see attached) and remove the chainrings and replace with a narrow-wide chainring and new bolts (Or shorten the existing bolts) or would I have to replace the crankset as well? I am wanting to convert to 1x as easily and cheaply as possible for now, but am pretty new to all this. Many thanks in advance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mojoman Posted August 6, 2020 Share Get a chainring from Rapide as well as shorter bolts...I did exactly the same with exactly the same crank...No issues (I did end up buying the RD extender as I went for a larger cassette eventually)https://www.rapide.co.za/product/rapide-104bcd-nw-forged-ultralight-rings/https://www.rapide.co.za/product/rapide-single-chainring-bolt-set-of-4/https://www.rapide.co.za/product/rapide-derailleur-hanger-extender/ Edited August 6, 2020 by Mojoman BenGraham, gemmerbal, Robbie Stewart and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wildwindfr Posted August 6, 2020 Share As above.Been running my hardtail like that for 3 years.Enjoy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisF Posted August 6, 2020 Share Welcome to the Hub. We did the same on this bike build project - https://community.bikehub.co.za/topic/181779-mongoose-rebuild-project/?hl=mongoose Going 1x10 may have some abortive costs ..... keeping the cassette on the back will limit you too much, not enough climbing gears and certainly not enough top-end. Buying a wide range 10 speed cassette will cost almost as much as an 11 or 12 speed cassette. The only extra costs being a shifter and derailure. PS - when we did this conversion only 1x11 worked on the standard free-bodies. You now have the option of a 1x12 onto the standard freebody. Given the tight tolerances, and nigly fine tuning on a 1x12 I still prefer a 1x11 .... but the new systems are getting better quickly .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MORNE Posted August 6, 2020 Share 1x10 11-40 Is fine. You have everything you need. Just get a 30 or 32T chainring...maybe some bolts. R400 ish all in. I still ride 32/1x10 11-36 and go up most things just fine with my 14kg bike. Go for a ride with and leave the front ring in the middle. You’ll soon realize that you don't need the rest and you are not as weak as you thought. Ps: i sure hope your name is a reference to the ‘D’ and that those numbers are suposed to be read upside down ???? Edited August 6, 2020 by morneS555 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaybles999 Posted August 6, 2020 Share Thanks for the responses! Get a chainring from Rapide as well as shorter bolts...I did exactly the same with exactly the same crank...No issues (I did end up buying the RD extender as I went for a larger cassette eventually)https://www.rapide.co.za/product/rapide-104bcd-nw-forged-ultralight-rings/https://www.rapide.co.za/product/rapide-single-chainring-bolt-set-of-4/https://www.rapide.co.za/product/rapide-derailleur-hanger-extender/ Thanks for the links. Do you reckon I'll need the extender at this stage? My derailleur is currently working fine with the current range (11t-40t). I assume I would only need the extender if going with an even wider range cassette 1x10 11-40 Is fine. You have everything you need. Just get a 30 or 32T chainring...maybe some bolts. R400 ish all in.I still ride 32/1x10 11-36 and go up most things just fine with my 14kg bike. Go for a ride with and leave the front ring in the middle. You’ll soon realize that you don't need the rest and you are not as weak as you thought.Ps: i sure hope your name is a reference to the ‘D’ and that those numbers are suposed to be read upside down ???? I have been pretty much keeping it on the middle front ring (32t) for the past few weeks, just to make sure I'll have enough range with the 1x, so I think I'm ready to take the leap! Always happy to meet other D-votees! MORNE 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alouette3 Posted August 6, 2020 Share Won't need an extender. I'm running a cheap Shimano HG500 10 spd cassette 11-42T and a 32T up front on 29" wheels. Works great. Same derailleur. If ordering from Rapide maybe get some chain ring bolt spacers, cheaper then buying shorter chain ring bolts. Edited August 6, 2020 by Alouette3 Jaybles999 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eddy Posted August 6, 2020 Share Hi all, I currently have a 3x10. Rear cassette = 11t - 40t.I am wanting to convert to 1x10May I ask why ? Genuine question. Mojoman 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaybles999 Posted August 7, 2020 Share May I ask why ? Genuine question. Simplicity mostly. I just find that I hardly, if ever, use anything other than the middle chainring in the front anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ridr Posted August 7, 2020 Share I've also done this on a few bikes - can even get a few different size chainrings to play around with from Rapide and get the spacers, they work perfectly and like said above are cheaper than new bolts. Jaybles999 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbie Stewart Posted August 7, 2020 Share I also have a 3x10 setup on my HT, and would in fact not mind just replacing the chainrings upfront rather than going 1x, which I have on my Full-sus. I find riding on my HT is just so much faster when not on trails, and I'd prefer not to lose that. Problem is I am struggling to find any replacement chainrings. Or else I am just not understanding what's needed. The current crank upfront is Shimano FC-M520 with 42/32/24 on 175mm crankarms. Rear I have Deore XT on a SRAM PG-1030 11-36 cassette. I'm not fussed on extending the cassette range as I am not planning on offroading this bike again. It's my "gravel / tar" cruiser.I'd also like some advice from those in the know.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertWhitehead Posted August 7, 2020 Share Robbie, all you need is to measure the BCD of the crank - on a 3x I am about 99% sure that it's a 104 BCD. Then you head over to Rapide or Lyne and get yourself a 104 BCD narrow wide chain ring - round or oval with some bolts and then you'll be sorted I also have a 3x10 setup on my HT, and would in fact not mind just replacing the chainrings upfront rather than going 1x, which I have on my Full-sus. I find riding on my HT is just so much faster when not on trails, and I'd prefer not to lose that. Problem is I am struggling to find any replacement chainrings. Or else I am just not understanding what's needed. The current crank upfront is Shimano FC-M520 with 42/32/24 on 175mm crankarms. Rear I have Deore XT on a SRAM PG-1030 11-36 cassette. I'm not fussed on extending the cassette range as I am not planning on offroading this bike again. It's my "gravel / tar" cruiser.I'd also like some advice from those in the know.. Robbie Stewart 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbie Stewart Posted August 7, 2020 Share Robbie, all you need is to measure the BCD of the crank - on a 3x I am about 99% sure that it's a 104 BCD. Then you head over to Rapide or Lyne and get yourself a 104 BCD narrow wide chain ring - round or oval with some bolts and then you'll be sortedThanks. I'll check and go get an oval. That sounds like a plan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaybles999 Posted August 16, 2020 Share So I have made the conversion. 32t NW chainring upfront, shortened the bolts and all is fine on that end. The new issue I seem to be having is that the chain is way too loose on the smallest sprockets and basically too tight or just right on the biggest. B-screw is basically maxed, the derailleur pretty much has no more to give. When riding on the 2 smallest sprockets, the chain jumps under any sort of load, rendering those 2 gears unusable. I thought maybe this was due to the chain being super loose when on these sprockets, as mentioned above. It might also be wear on those sprockets, but it wasn't happening at all when it was 3x and I was on the largest front cog. Have checked the chain - not even near 75% wear, so all good there. Would I be able to use a derailleur extender? Or am I basically limited by this derailleur and will have to replace? - Pictures of derailleur in original post. Thanks in advance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bullet77 Posted August 16, 2020 Share I think you might find a new cassette and chain with the new chainring will work. I know it's not what you want to hear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
100Tours Posted August 16, 2020 Share So I have made the conversion. 32t NW chainring upfront, shortened the bolts and all is fine on that end. The new issue I seem to be having is that the chain is way too loose on the smallest sprockets and basically too tight or just right on the biggest. B-screw is basically maxed, the derailleur pretty much has no more to give. When riding on the 2 smallest sprockets, the chain jumps under any sort of load, rendering those 2 gears unusable. I thought maybe this was due to the chain being super loose when on these sprockets, as mentioned above. It might also be wear on those sprockets, but it wasn't happening at all when it was 3x and I was on the largest front cog. Have checked the chain - not even near 75% wear, so all good there. Would I be able to use a derailleur extender? Or am I basically limited by this derailleur and will have to replace? - Pictures of derailleur in original post. Thanks in advance! Take photos of the issue and post them please. it should work just fine. Especially if this was working in the 3x10 arrangement. The deraileur has less to do now than it previously had to take care of. Possibly it is installed badly on the hangar (I know, seems too obvious) Edit: A hanger extender will drop your deraileur away from the cassette to allow you to get it underneath a large "granny gear" sprocket, but it does slightly reduce the chain wrap on the smaller sprockets (resulting in slower/sloppy shifting for the smallest gears). If you can already get down to the granny gear then there is nothing to gain by adding a hanger extender. Edited August 16, 2020 by 100Tours Jaybles999 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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