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Wahoo kicker skipping gears ?


Geared

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Hi all, 

 

Purchased a wahoo kickr4 during COVID and a suitable bike to train. 

 

After a few issues on initial set up (user error) i managed a few good workouts . 

 

The new bike had to go in for a tune up at cycle lab. 

 

Came back, dropped to last gear rear, big chain ring front, dropped her onto wahoo, rear break lock in, and thru axle, basically a reversal of taking her off. 

 

Did a spin down test , did notice a slight chain noise. But didn’t ride further. 

 

Had a big crash on my mountain bike the following day and have only now recovered to resume training (4 weeks) 

 

climb on wahoo kickr for yesterdays session, and didn’t make 2 min, gears change on their own, keeps skipping gears with no input form me, and not randomly , just all the time. 

 

Now i cant figure out what changed, i will go through the set up again this am, i tried googling, but the solutions seemed above my pay grade and knowledge of bikes (adjusting derailer etc) 

 

my first thought was somehow the spacing changed as mine is a not the norm, its a Merida reacto 6000 disc. 

 

If anyone has experienced this before, and hopefully had an easy fix, or simply user error on my part when i reinstalled the bike ?

 

 

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Tune up at Cyclelab, thats your problem right there.

Sounds like the RD needs some adjustments.

Just watch a few YouTube videos and you will be able to figure it out.

 

 

Went and used my hands to spin the peddles and shift gears , while watching the cassette.

 

smallest cog and the next one up it skips between, then if i move to the 3rd cog its “ok” ,keep shifting up, and it gets worse again, and it maxes out on the second largest cog, and wont change to the biggest ring. 

 

Have the Shimano ultegra system on. 

 

Searching YouTube now for anything remotely similar. 

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Are the gears "climbing" ... the cable is too tight and you need to turn out the barrel to restore peace and harmony ...

 

If the gears are "dropping" the barrel is to be turned in ...

 

Safest way to start is on the very smallest gear and making sure the shifter has unclicked through all the gears.

 

This assuming they got the upper and lower limit settings correct .... IF the casette is off-set then you should start with the limit screws .... which is why you should start on the smallest gear.

 

 

 

Silly question ... does the bike and the Kickr both have the same cassette ? Both in number of gears and teeth count ?

 

 

On my setup there certainly is a bit of barrel adjusting required ....

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How is cassette setting/spacing ensured between trainer and wheel on wheel-off systems.? (no experience with Wahoo or similar)

Possible that with service, gears were set according to bike/wheel which differs marginally from trainer.?

As you and other have suggested, probably just needs a rear derailleur adjustment.

Edited by Thomo
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Just a rock in a bush, do you have DI2 on your bike? Perhaps(again just a thought) the electronics got damaged, causing gear shifts?

 

Had to go check, I don’t think its the di2 , just says Shimano ultegra , checked the specs and says the same, nothing specified after “ultegra” , went to check bike and cant see any further names or models. 

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Are the gears "climbing" ... the cable is too tight and you need to turn out the barrel to restore peace and harmony ...

 

If the gears are "dropping" the barrel is to be turned in ...

 

Safest way to start is on the very smallest gear and making sure the shifter has unclicked through all the gears.

 

This assuming they got the upper and lower limit settings correct .... IF the casette is off-set then you should start with the limit screws .... which is why you should start on the smallest gear.

 

 

 

Silly question ... does the bike and the Kickr both have the same cassette ? Both in number of gears and teeth count ?

 

 

On my setup there certainly is a bit of barrel adjusting required ....

 

 

If i play with this rotating knob, it improves in some areas and worse in others , so it will now shift to the top gear, but the last three smaller (hard) gears noisy and rough .... 

 

 

 

 

aannndd i am just trying to see how to post pics lol so “this rotating knob“ makes more sense lol

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How is cassette setting/spacing ensured between trainer and wheel on wheel-off systems.? (no experience with Wahoo or similar)

Possible that with service, gears were set according to bike/wheel which differs marginally from trainer.?

As you and other have suggested, probably just needs a rear derailleur adjustment.

 

 

I think the cassette is fine, initially the guys at Cyclefit, came through, set my bikes up and the wahoo for me, all was working fine. 

 

The bike has never seen the road, and only came off when i got the message it needed to come in for a “tune up” and then back on the trainer. 

 

Thank you all for your patience, i am truly technically challenged, when it comes to this. 

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I think the cassette is fine, initially the guys at Cyclefit, came through, set my bikes up and the wahoo for me, all was working fine.

 

I wasn't saying there's an issue with the cassette, but rather that the gears are now possibly set according to the wheel spacing and no longer according trainer spacing.

These can differ and sometimes requires minor tuning when swapping between the two.

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If i play with this rotating knob, it improves in some areas and worse in others , so it will now shift to the top gear, but the last three smaller (hard) gears noisy and rough ....

 

 

Random playing with the "knob" isn't going to help. :)

You need to follow the process of rear derailleur adjustment.

Watch a YouTube video ... it's easier seen than trying to explain here.

Edited by Thomo
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Random playing with the "knob" isn't going to help. :)

You need to following the process of rear derailleur adjustment.

Watch a YouTube video ... it's easier seen than trying to explain here.

 

 

Lol facepalm, yeah realizing that Now haha 

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the cassette on the trainer is positioned differently than on your wheel - check the difference in the gap between your 11 and the frame with the wheel and then compare when its on the trainer, you will find its bigger.

 

In the setup instructions they tell you to re-adjust your RD when mounting a bike on the Kickr

 

thats why most use a dedicated bike on the trainer - no need to keep adjusting your RD

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This would be the best video on how to set the rear derailleur.

 

 

 

Extremely helpful thank you, learn something everyday. 

 

the cassette on the trainer is positioned differently than on your wheel - check the difference in the gap between your 11 and the frame with the wheel and then compare when its on the trainer, you will find its bigger.

 

In the setup instructions they tell you to re-adjust your RD when mounting a bike on the Kickr

 

thats why most use a dedicated bike on the trainer - no need to keep adjusting your RD

 

 

Thank you, i suppose RTFM comes to mind, and this has motivated me to investigate another bike for the Trainer, i briefly considered it, and now i see it will be worth the money, to avoid this frustration. 

 

Probably gets a Bit easier with more experience and technical knowledge of the workings of the bike.

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