Heinrichgg

For road riding I reckon going out you can try Smuts up William Nicol to Witkoppen and Cedar Road from there. Road works a pain on cedar but still best route out imo. Early enough traffic shouldnt be a problem. Cold might be in winter though. The way back also might not be pleasant in re traffic. Maybe finding a combination of side streets that works for you... e.g. cedar to witkoppen to kingfisher, robin, leslie, hornbill, etc etc. Google earth/maps great to get a sense of how arterial a route is and get an idea of traffic, road width, and also safety of areas passing through..

Suzuki Gixxer 150cc. Brand new is less than R40k, you get the safety goodies you need like LED lights, larger wheels (than scooter) and disc brakes (v drum brakes on other small cc bikes) and the naked looks damn good imo. I dont think anything more is needed for commute.. if you're going to save petrol, might as well do so properly with a small displacement motorcycle. In re lane filtering, I do it in low second gear. Slow enough to react to most things that can happen ahead and slow enough that if something does happen it shouldnt be the end of me.. still wayyy faster than being stuck in traffic. Got a white helmet and high viz jacket to help with visibility.

Passed a rider being loaded into an ambulance on sterkfontein road. Didn't see any mangled bikes or upset motorists so believe it was a cause other than a vehicle accident.

Agree that 34t oval and 34t round is the same. One rotation moves the chain 34 links and using same sprocket in the back, will rotate the rear wheel the same distance. Don't think work will be much different either since friction and gravity forces will be the same, so positive work done to cover negative work done by those should be the same to maintain a constant speed. Oval's main advantage seems to be traction control by making the torque on the rear wheel smoother.

There are skills sessions at the Cycle Lab bike park if that's nearby. I've also seen adverts at Thaba trails for skills coaching so maybe call there if it's closer to you.

My research suggests that a 31mm body length only fets 7 speed. 35mm necessary for a 10spd cassette. A quick google can help you confirm or if you have a cassette with more sprockets lying around, try to fit it and see. I recently did a 1x conversion that cost me just under R3k with all new parts. Deore rdm5120 derailleur, deore csm4100 11-46 cassette, kmc 10spd chain from evobikes and then a rapide n/w 34t chainring. I should probably have gone with a 30t but live and learn. I already had a shifter as it was a 2x10 before. I ised rapide's 2mm spacers to improve my chainline but for a triple crank you can get a good chainline by mounting on the middle ring. If I'm correct and the 1x conversion wont work with your current hub, the costs start to not make a lot of sense for the value of the bike to start off with.

I've done the same thing and fit a shimano chainring by filing down the tabs. Note that shifting performance will suffer slightly because the relative position of the teeth of the two chainrings is likely to be different to how the design intended them to be.

The donation is the cost price of the goods sold and the opportunity cost of the profit. Very generous and nothing like tagging R1 onto a meal. Not that what KFC does is so unbelievably shameful, it's much better than doing nothing and they probably raise lots of money.

Rode there this morning and was quite disappointed. The very first sections of the yellow route is almost completely overgrown. For some sections the trail is just a rut as wide as a tyre. On others you're riding on grass for extended sections. I found myself enduring the trails rather than enjoying. I'd be a regular once they sort out maintenance

Rode there this morning and was quite disappointed. The very first sections of the yellow route is almost completely overgrown. For some sections the trail is just a rut as wide as a tyre. On others you're riding on grass for extended sections. I found myself enduring the trails rather than enjoying. I'd be a regular once they sort out maintenance

Rode top mast the other day and found it to be a wonderful outing. Strava gives the average grade of the tar climnb, anyone know what the steepest pitches are?

Personally, I would prefer that a shop does not offer a service to me, rather than respond to my reasonable annoyance with a flippant "guess we could be better at communicating" and then writing a paragraph going on about how I should just be grateful that they are doing this for me.

Once you look at the logo poorly photoshopped into the pictures and spelled "seconda", it really does fall apart

Hi Everyone Does anyone know anything about the Magene T300? Anyone own one and can give me some feedback on it? Thanks

Just the other day I removed my crank and BB to fix a ticking noise. Noticed the pedal was looseish on spindle when I reinstalled so thought it was that. Put on other pedals. Still a tick. Swop out rear wheel. Maybe back hub is being funny. Still a tick As I grab my bike to put it away for the night hear the tick. Turns out it was my saddle. Loosened the seatpost bolts and tightened it again, tick gone. Thought it was crank because it happened as I pedalled and louder if I pedal harder and always at same place in revolution. Turns out its the slight hip rocking that gets worse when I pedal harder, thus louder tick