dwinter

Ha ha..all my mates running GX haven’t exactly been singing its praises from the rooftops..it’s also got its issues. OP - meant to ask - are you running an oval chainring? I wonder if the constant rocking of the RD as the oval turns doesn’t perhaps put additional strain on it? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What were the symptoms of your RD giving up the ghost? After about a year my M8000 lost some of its tension and would just flop forward and my chain would hang loose in the lower gears. The LBS said it was a clutch issue and “tightened something up” which stopped the floppy RD, but ever since then I haven’t used my clutch because it’s made the shifting stiff. My RD works, but it’s also recently started creaking which made me start researching the clutch system. (After a colleague suggested it) Turns out the shimano clutches are pretty simple things than can be adjusted and lubricated when needed. Shimano recommends the same lube you use for shimano hubs (cwc recently started stocking it) but another LBS swears by using Finish Line wet lube (green bottle) as a lube on your clutch. Watch YouTube for guidance, but you simply remove the clutch cover (3 screws) and drop a dollop of finish line in there and move the RD arm back and forwards. They use FL for just about any creaking part. I think shimano clutches are also prone to breaking at a particular point (piece that supports the tensioning screw) and one unfortunately can’t source replacement clutches locally...we seem to be a replace rather than a repair mkt. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi I'm From Earth, Thanks for your response. I'm still not sure I understand the process 100%, but nevertheless I've submitted a bearing warranty claim via the US site as you suggested (included my purchase invoice) and - from what you've explained - will your CRM system pick up my claim and sort it out? Or do I still need to contact my local SC dealer?

Why create all these expectations that you'll get amazing after-sales service when you register and then when you click on the Bearing Warranty link you get sent to the US site, which says if you're outside the US, etc you need to contact a local dealer.... awesome...ok, so I must contact my LBS who will give me the usual blank stare when I ask them for more bearings, or try and charge me.... FAIL. Great product, but service...eish..not so much.

I imagine LBSs are also feeling some price pressure from CWCs online deals, which are hard to beat. Hats off to CWC for seeing the gap and taking it.

I've had itb for years. The issue seems to originate from weak glutes and an over-compensating TFL (hip flexor) which tightens and then pulls the band tight. Does she get tight hip flexors when she gets itb pain?

Thanks. I'll stick with the long cage then. Cheers, D

Hey. I've just bought a 1x11 XT upgrade kit from CWC to replace my current 2x10 XT kit. I plan to run a 32 front blade and it's a 11-42 cassette. The upgrade kit comes with a long-cage RD (SGS), but I think I'd prefer a medium-cage RD (GS) to limit rock strikes and just to keep things a bit neater. Does anyone know of any issues or have any practical experience / advice running a medium-cage (GS) XT RD with a 32 blade and 11-42 cassette? Or should one stick with a SGS when running this set-up? Shot, Dave

This accident happened on the Pringle Bay side of Bettys just after the road cutting and where the shoulder is relatively narrow. It was close to the turn-off to the old BB road / Stony Point turn-off and is on a corner. I've always felt more vulnerable from oncoming cars and think over-taking or distracted drivers approaching you from the front are a bigger risk compared to a car nudging or glancing you from behind. For this reason I think a flashing white LED on the bars is a good safety / visibility feature and will hopefully catch a distracted drivers attention.

Hi Tatt - have you got those agent contact details for the 3M tape in Cape Town? Thanks, Dave

What attracted me to the SC TB is that they will give you new bearings for free if you send in your old ones. Not that bearings are that expensive, but it speaks to their ethos of encouraging SC riders to work on their own bikes. The SC website provides you with a complete breakdown of all the pivots with torque specs and shows you how to replace bearings etc. They also give you a grease gun and grease with the frame so you can regrease the bottom pivot yourself. I serviced my front and back Fox CTD forks for 2k about a month ago. Used stokeworks in Cape Town.

Thanks guys. This all makes sense. I'll stick it out for now. davidlangebaan - It was the ergofit set-up.

Howzit, I recently went for a pro bike set-up - ergofit - and one of the changes made was lowering my saddle slightly, dropping my bars a tad and shifting my saddle as far forward as possible. I changed the set-up 'cos I was getting back pain on long (>3/4 hours) rides. I'm a tall dude (193cm) and have always found climbing hills relatively easy, but now with this new set-up I find I don't seem to have as much power and seem to be using my quads more than before. Could my previous set-up have been completely incorrect and I now need to get my quads used to doing more work, or do you reckon I should tweak my set-up further? I've moved my saddle back slightly again to see if this makes a difference, but it doesn't seem to have helped. Any thoughts?