verandapanda

As someone who may even know the design team responsible for this personally, I can tell you that it was not designed to have a bigger capacity motor, battery and therefore a longer range, but to take the elements/experiences of non-assist bike and apply them to an assisted experience whilst dropping weight and maintaining the best possible ride geo and feel. The Rail is still the go-to, large, long-range capacity workhorse, whilst this is designed to plug a gap in Trek's product line. I can tell you personally that the gents at the TQ booth at Eurobike two weeks ago were grinning from ear-to-ear as Specialized paid a very special visit camera's in hand and all...

Don't forget strapping blood bags to the walls of the Southern Sun the night before...

Following on from everyone above, I posted these more practical race-day tips on a previous forum: 1. Get your seeding value down- if your group can't ride at sub-3 pace and you can't ride away from them like "mini Thomas de Gendt", kiss that sub-3 goodbye; 2. Climbs - Your P/kg is CRITICAL. As mentioned above. 3. Gearing - If you can hold 65 km/h, with a light-ish SE, without spinning-out when you turn after Smits you will avoid being dropped. That is approx. a 50-11 at 100 rpm so if you can't #spintowin consider a semi-compact; 4. Refuel - Eat before you're hungry & drink before you're thirsty. You'll be burning matches and you do not want to 'bonk'. Doesn't matter what your P/kg is if your tank is empty... 5. Be Safe - From my experience some risks may be required and will be worth taking i.e. bridging a gap if the bunch splits following a crash, but some are NOT. As my coach once said, you can't get a sub-3 if you don't finish.

We have another one, folks: https://www.bikehub.co.za/classifieds/388320-merida-carbon-10-speed-mint-condition/?source=topad

Let me introduce you all to the magic that is Hambini... You can thank me later. https://www.hambini.com/blog/post/testing-to-find-the-fastest-bicycle-wheel-hubs/

The difference is 1k. One way to look at it is by paying that you get the new R7000 105 which is 11 speed versus the older 10 speed Ultegra (as you pointed out). The newer R7000 is arguably as good, if not better than, the older 10 speed Ultegra and you get an extra ratio to play with. And the R7000 chain and cassette have the newer Shimano protective coating which has trickled down from the newer Ultegra and Dura-Ace. The Reacto does have a "more aero" frameset I imagine, but with a 58 cm Trek frame you have more room to slam your stem, thereby, getting a more aero position anyway and with the bike only contributing ~30% of aero drag, you are going to be getting bigger aero gains with that position change, than you would be getting from that Reacto frame. It depends on what you are looking for ultimately.

I agree with absolutely everything you have said.. I wonder if Bahrain-Merida will find a way to lose his contract and block him on WhatsApp.

Just going to put this here. Read it. Don't read it. But it provides for an interesting insight into the head of this skinny, prickly Aussie. http://www.cyclingnews.com/features/what-next-for-troubled-rohan-dennis/

@JDavis: My top points, speaking from experience: 1. Get this seeding value down- if your group can't ride at sub-3 pace and you can't ride away from them like "mini Thomas de Gendt", kiss that sub-3 goodbye; 2. Climbs - Your P/kg is high enough to hit those climbs with some electric pace - so you won't be dropped on any climbs so you're more than good in this dept.; 3. Gearing - If you can hold 65 km/h, with a light-ish SE, without spinning-out when you turn after Smits you will avoid being dropped. A 50-11 at 100 rpm is thereabouts (I think); 4. Refuel - Eat before you're hungry & drink (ENOUGH) before you're thirsty. You'll be burning matches and you do not want to 'bonk'. Last but probably most important: 5. Be Safe - Ride defensively and avoid losing your mind in the heat of the moment! Some risks are worth taking but some are NOT. Only experience can define this distinction. You can't get a sub-3 if you don't finish.

And next time on, "People Playing Games for a Living throwing Tantrums"...

My two rusty cents: Imagine if I abandoned a lengthy work commitment (a project per se), because I didn't like my keyboard or computer screen.. Lol.

Anyone else noticed the stark doping hypocrisy present at the Tour this year? The 50th anniversary of Merckx's first of five Tour victories has been celebrated and marketed across the opening weekend of this year's Tour de France although, it is quite heavily documented that he tested positive for illegal substances on 3 separate occasions between 1969 to 1977. This includes testing positive for hectic stimulants including amphetamines and norephidrines. What strikes me as not only odd but ridiculous is that he is now being revered as a "legend" of the sport now helping generate significant media and advertising revenue after all these years have passed, whereas, riders from the modern era are disposed of onto the scrapheap of cycling history ~ as they arguably should be. Would love to know what the UCI's and ASO's respective positions are on doping in 2019 because no points for figuring out what message this sends. Where are the Alpine fans with their large inflatable syringes when you need them? Also, sock-height laws are quite ridiculous.

As both a long-time seller and buyer, I share the general trend of sentiments and comments above. Going one step further, I tend towards standardization in definitions so I use bicyclebluebook.com's definitions of a bike's condition and corresponding value estimate. They only use the following categories: Excellent, very good, good and fair, each with the following definitions. These are not to be overstated in my opinion. "EXCELLENT: The bicycle looks new and is in like-new mechanical condition. The frame & fork have no visible or detectable blemishes or damage. All components, parts, and accessories are clean and free of any visible & detectable blemishes or damage. No service is required on any component, part, or accessory. Tires and grips/handlebar tape are original spec and in pristine condition. VERY GOOD:The bicycle looks good, may have minimal cosmetic (only) blemishes on the frame, fork, components, parts and/or accessories. The bicycle may require minimal service adjustments without the need of replacing any parts. The suspension (if applicable) and braking surfaces are clean with some signs of usage yet free from grooves & pitting. The tires, grips/handlebar tape, and brake pads may show signs of usage yet have a majority of their life remaining. GOOD:The frame or fork or components or accessories have cosmetic blemishes. The frame (if metal) may have minor, aesthetic dings. Paint is faded slightly and/or slightly discolored and scratched. Bicycle is free of major mechanical issues but may require some service, a tune up is recommended. Some parts may require replacing, not to include front or rear shocks, wheels, shifters, front or rear derailleurs, braking systems, crank set or chainrings. Items that may need to be replaced include: tires, tubes, grips/handlebar tape, brake pads, brake hoods, chain & cassette, brake cables, gear cables, any/all housing, brake fluid and shock oil. Braking surfaces may have minor grooves or discoloration. Suspension and brakes may need to be serviced. FAIR:The frame or fork or components or accessories have cosmetic blemishes. The frame (if metal) has minor, aesthetic dings. Paint is faded slightly and/or slightly discolored and scratched. The bicycle has some mechanical issues and a tune up is necessary. An overhaul is recommended. Multiple parts need to be replaced. Suspension and brakes need to be serviced." Some terms I have come across in my time and their definitions below: "Basically new" = Almost new, but not new."Hardly used" = Used sparingly over a period of time. Also, not new. But probably in good condition."100%" = It functions 100% but is not 100% of it's value. It isn't an antique either. Apologies for the lengthy comment, although, I am a firm believer in the "free market" and willing buyer willing seller phenomenon, I do think it is time we start being open and transparent with one another.

Thought I would revive this thread. Any Hubbers got a Tacx Flux S/Flux 2 that have done significant miles? Looking for a long term review from some local humans as overseas there are growing opinions recently that paint these in a bad light and point toward an inherent design fault. (See FB Tacx Flux Owners Group if you're keen) It is difficult to get an accurate and "fair" representation of the spread of opinions due to a number of reasons.. Is it generally quite good? Generally quite bad?

That awkward moment you stumble onto the SAIDS website and the names there read like a class list of people you knew way back in matric...