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Joe Soap

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  • Province
    Gauteng
  • Location
    Pretoria

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  1. Hmmm... Surprised that some of you are very happy with your SRAM BB's. Might have a dud or fluke piece rubbish that found its way in. Will re-verify installation Thanks for the input
  2. Looking for some advice please. I have a DUB crank set and a frame that takes BSA threaded BB. Obvious choice is to use SRAM's BB, which I have. I am not very impressed with the service life of the SRAM BB. Are there perhaps other options available that is comparable with this setup? If not, what is considered the "best" crank standard to use with threaded BB's?
  3. Thanks, I'll see if I can find a used BSA to see if it might work
  4. Now that you mention it... If my logic is not failing me, then technically it's only the left cup that Italian so I might be able to use English with my existing ITA left cup... Not sure if BB diameters and threads are the same between ENG and ITA?
  5. Took me years to just know enough about MTB BBs, don't have time to invest the same in road bikes. I have a cheap road bike that uses Italian BB with Shimano Ultegra 6500 (Octalink) cranks. My BB is not completely vrot yet but might as well start shopping. As far as I can tell, not going to find a BB easy that works with this combo. Any suggestions on other crank options that will work with IT BB that won't break the bank? Or even better, if you have a lead on a Italian - Octalink BB that would be 1st prize.
  6. This bike ticks a lot of boxes I've never been a Merida fan but this bike (and the new long travel HT) I'm starting to reconsider. Some really useful innovation (twist lock/chain guide/top cap/mounting points/seat tube/2 bottles) on this bike not like other new brands that just did a copy and paste exercise Can't justify the price yet (of any new bike)
  7. Sounds like a great idea. Also have family in DBN so can do a long-long weekend. If calendar allows it then I'll make an effort to join a trip like this.
  8. I've always wanted to take a picture like this
  9. That sounds like a very logical approach. Apparently I'm looking for fossilized Unicorns at this stage... (Pike/Fox34 with 120-130 travel, boost and 170mm steerer) If a well priced other fork (i.e. SID/32) comes along I might also consider it but has to be 120 travel. But not too fussed about the brand/model
  10. Ahh, I see where we went wrong. You are under the assumption that I have a brand new fresh fork in a box somewhere and I just want to trim for aesthetic purposes. Nope. Still shopping around 2nd hand stuff that has already been snipped. My question in other words are, what is the biggest gap between top cap and steerer that I'll be able to get away with? I.e anything more than 15mm is looking for trouble. I fully realize that the answer will be "IMHO" based and not based on scientific fact.
  11. How much...? Are you guys saying that I have to use a spacer? The way I see it, the steerer should NOT stick out above the stem to be able to "torque" the headset? I.e. Head tube + top and bottom headset + stem = 175mm, so if I get a fork with 170 steerer then I've got 5mm to "compress" the headset (without spacers)
  12. Next topic of of advice please: Fork steer tube length My head tube is 110mm, bottom headset 12mm, top 8mm, and stem is 45mm. All this adds up to 175mm with no spacres. What you you say is the shortest fork steer tube that I can get away with?
  13. Where did you order from? Let me know how they go please, also keen on giving them a spin.
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